Carb Solutions: Zhug

Over half of the U.S. adult population, some 154 million, qualify as being overweight or obese. Another 29 million of us have Diabetes, many as a direct result of being overweight. Then there are the 23.9 million overweight children who are dutifully following the example of their XXL adult role models. Diabetes and these extra pounds cost this country billions annually in both medical and economic resources, not to mention the effect these weight-related maladies have on a person’s overall mental well-being and happiness. However, both diabetes and being overweight are very manageable, even preventable, with a few lifestyle tweaks. By maintaining a sensible diet in conjunction with some regular exercise, no matter how minimal, we can all be in total control of our own weight. One easy way to start taking that control is to make decisions about the foods we eat based on the glycemic index [GI] and glycemic load [GL].

Simply put, our bodies convert all foods into sugar calories that provide energy to the body via the bloodstream. The Glycemic Index assigns a score of 1 to 100 to all foods based on how quickly the body converts that food into sugar. Foods that break down slowly enable the body to assimilate these calories of energy more efficiently without overwhelming the body with more sugar than it can process. While this is especially important for diabetics who process sugars much more slowly than others, everyone can benefit from eating foods that have low glycemic scores since they also reduce appetite and encourage the metabolism to burn body fat. Conversely, a diet of foods high on the glycemic charts has been proven to increase appetite and impede effective fat oxidation. 

A QUICKIE GLYCEMIC PRIMER: 

• The glycemic index of a food compares its effect on blood sugar level to that of pure glucose, which has a score of 100. White breads, which are made of processed white flour, are at the top of this scale, scoring a “perfect” 100 on the glycemic index. For perspective, a score of 55 or below denotes a low glycemic index food; 70 or above is considered very high.  Serving size is not a consideration in arriving at food’s Glycemic Index number.
• The glycemic load, on the other hand, focuses on how much digestible carbohydrates (sugars) a food contains in a typical single serving, which is defined as approximately 3.5 ounces. For glycemic load, a score of 20 or more is high, while 10 or less is low.

In our house, we don’t even call it by its name. We just call it “the sauce.” As in, “the sauce that goes on everything.” 

Zhug (pronounced zoog) is a Yemeni condiment that sits somewhere between a chimichurri, hot sauce, and pesto. It’s herby, garlicky, and loaded with just enough heat to embolden whatever it's spooned over. I like it as a topping for eggs, drizzled on grilled chicken or fish, stirred into dips, or as a jazzy base for vegetable sides. There's really no wrong way to use it, and once you learn how to make your own, you'll always want a jar in the fridge as a reason to — like I said — put it on everything.

As I’m learning, so many low-carb strategies come down to cutting things out. Zhug flips that script. Instead of asking what you can't have, it gives you something bold to pile on top of all the things you can. And a little goes a long way, so a homemade batch stretches across a week or more of meals, elevating everything it touches along the way. 

Zhug is a win for low-carb eating. It’s made only with fresh chiles, garlic, herbs, warming spices, and olive oil — no sugar and no starch, meaning nothing to spike your blood sugar. Herbs like cilantro and parsley are essentially carb-free, and olive oil has no measurable glycemic impact, since glycemic index only applies to foods containing carbohydrates. Garlic and fresh chiles carry only trace amounts of natural sugars spread across a whole batch. In short, a spoonful of zhug is about as low-glycemic as a condiment gets, making it an easy way to add real flavor to a low-carb plate without the guilt of a sugary sauce or dressing.

Making zhug is a simple process. Start by gently toasting then grinding whole coriander, cumin, black pepper, and cardamom in a mortar and pestle until they turn into a fragrant powder — this step is essential, since freshly ground spices taste noticeably brighter than anything pre-ground. From there, pound in garlic, fresh Thai peppers, and salt into a rough paste, then work in the herbs a little at a time until everything comes together, with no large pieces left. Finish by slowly drizzling in olive oil until it emulsifies into a thick, spoonable sauce.

A mortar and pestle gives you the best texture, since it bruises the ingredients rather than pureeing them into mush, but a food processor will work here if you pulse your ingredients carefully. Either way, taste as you go. Zhug should be spicy, but it shouldn't be one-note.

Thai peppers are my choice, but feel free to swap them according to your tastes. I’ve seen zhug made with jalapeños; Melissa's Serrano Peppers are a close swap for heat and brightness, whereas adding a Habanero Pepper or two will really turn up the heat. If you prefer a milder spice, something like Red Fresno Peppers will bring a sweeter, gentler heat, but still do the job (while also changing the signature color). 

Once it's made, zhug keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator. That is, if it even lasts that long.

Zhug

Ingredients
6 fresh Thai Peppers, red or green, or similar 
4 cloves Organic Garlic, roughly chopped
2 cups fresh cilantro and parsley, leaves and stems, loosely packed 
1/2 cup EVOO
1/4 tsp. whole coriander seeds
1/2 tsp.  whole cumin seeds
1/4 tsp.  freshly ground black pepper
3 green cardamom pods, small internal seeds only, toasted (optional)
Himalayan Pink Sea Salt, to taste

Directions

Combine coriander, cumin, black pepper, and cardamom seeds (if using) in a mortar and pestle and grind into a powder using a firm, circular motion. 

Add garlic, chiles, and salt and pound into a rough paste. 

Add herbs a little at a time and continue to pound into a rough paste. There should be no large pieces of chiles or herbs.

Slowly drizzle in EVOO to form an emulsion. Salt to taste. Serve immediately or store it in the refrigerator in an airtight container for several weeks.