Christopher Blobaum
Chef and partner of Wilshire Restaurant (Santa Monica, CA)
It's such an over-used word in the culinary arts, but Christopher Blobaum, chef and partner of Wilshire Restaurant (Santa Monica, CA) is passionate about cooking, about cooking with organic ingredients, about sourcing those ingredients personally, about supporting the small family farm, about his collection of old and new cookbooks, about his newly adopted daughter. In fact, he is pretty enthused about life in general these days as his personal and professional visions seem to be coming to fruition at every level.
One of his goals, partnership of a restaurant, was achieved when Christopher joined the partnership team of entrepreneur Steve Levine in opening Wilshire Restaurant in September 2005. Chef Chris is not new to the Southern California culinary scene. He came to the Wilshire from an award-winning stint as the Executive Chef at Surf and Sand Resort and Spa in Laguna Beach. Preceding his time on the beach in Laguna, he was the opening Executive Chef at Le Merigot Beach Hotel in Santa Monica, and two hotels in Beverly Hills, the Beverly Prescott and the Beverly Pavilion. While his early years were spent with the Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts in other parts of the country, his zeal for cooking melded with his fervor for using and supporting organic producers when he started working with the growers of Southern California.
As Chef Blobaum put it, "This region is blessed with talented farmers growing a fantastic collection of environmentally-friendly crops from San Diego to Paso Robles and the restaurant supports using organic produce whenever possible."
Early Years
One of the oldest, largest and most diverse farmers markets in the country is the Santa Monica Farmer's Market. "I first began visiting this market about fifteen years ago," said the chef, "Over the years I have developed relationships with some of the growers from that venue who now supply the restaurant from the market twice a week."
The chef still tries to get to this market weekly just to see what's new with the change of seasons. "As a food professional, the market is a resourceful place for me; spending a morning there, renewing acquaintances, or talking over upcoming harvests is not work but a real joy and incredibly relaxing; each visit rekindles my energy and appreciation of what I get to do for a living and the amazing producers that I deal with on a daily basis!"
The menu at the restaurant is seasonally inspired. As Chris explained, "The organic growers who I deal with are not only suppliers, but also collaborators who help with our menus along with our culinary team. Their input, about what is waning and what is coming on in their fields and orchards, is the primary ingredient that drives my menu plan."
On the popularity of organics in the foodservice industry in general, the chef commented, "There was a time when the restaurant trade lagged behind the burgeoning growth of organics at the retail grocery level. But today, I believe that the one-on-one relationships that are being developed across the country between chefs and niche market growers represent a symbiotic solution that will help both entities survive in the very competitive business environments that we each operate in." The chef went on to explain, "While it's true that the small family farm cannot possibly compete with large corporate farming entities in some commercial arenas, those corporate farms cannot come close to providing me with the personal touch that I need to satisfy the Wilshire patron looking for that 'something special' in their dining experience." Chris is very proud that 70% of Wilshire Restaurant's fresh ingredients are sourced directly from small organic farms. But added, "I take the word 'organic' very seriously; my father, Roger Blobaum, sits on an accreditation board that oversees the certifiers, a watchdog, keeping the integrity of organic and its standards. It cannot be compromised or else it may have the same impact as 'natural' does. That being said, not everything is organic at our local markets and therefore the relationship with these farmers is very important, at least with me. Some actually have better standards than the organic rules require and others simply cannot afford the cost of the certification process. So I ask questions. Sometimes it's the fact that the produce was picked during the afternoon before market and we can have it on plates the next evening, where the freshness and quality play a big part of flavor, keeping food clean and celebrating the ingredient. This is the difference."
"It doesn't always go as planned for the farmer or the chef since seasons have unpredictable weather patterns and small growers can underestimate the yield or need of a particular crop that I have put on the menu," admitted the chef. "However, working with the inconsistencies that are a part of farming is something that all chefs should learn to work with and to be flexible in their menu plans; that's part and parcel of working with fresh ingredients sourced directly from grower-suppliers." "Too many chefs opt for the consistency in supply that is available from large foodservice wholesalers because they do not have the patience, or understanding, to deal with the small producer. Certainly, running a restaurant needs to be approached as a business; however, I see myself in the business of taste. Our organic suppliers offer me the best tools to be successful at that business using growing practices that have a positive impact on the environment. The trade-off of supposed inconsistency, which is actually quite rare, is worth the occasional menu changes considering the importance of maintaining a clean environment and helping to make the small farming operation sustainable.
Chris preaches what he practices with a section on the restaurant's website called Wilshire Organic; the well-written information is dedicated to defining, explaining and promoting organic foods. In his own words, the chef not only tells how and what the restaurant is doing to support the environment and organics, but also provides the reader with a very complete reference resource that connects those who want to find out more about the category to web links about organic issues and organizations both locally and nationally.
As if talking about and preparing ingredients were not enough, Chris reads and collects books on the subject as well: cookbooks. His collection consists of publications dating back to colonial days; books focused on cuisines of various parts of this country; as well as autographed first editions of his own contemporary peer group of culinary stars, like Julia Childs and James Beard. The collection numbers over 3000, which the chef admits would be a lot larger if wife Kimberly did not have two votes to his one about turning their home in Marina del Rey into a decorating style that would have to be described as "early-used-book-store"!
Adding to his already full schedule of culinary duties at Wilshire Restaurant, Chris and Kimberly have recently taken on another full-time job that promises a sort of job security: the adoption of a baby girl from China, Tuesday Grace. "It's kind of ironic," mused the chef, "that after years of mastering the control that a successful commercial kitchen demands, I find myself being totally amazed and controlled by such a small bundle of energy and needs. We are very excited and blessed by how this little girl has added a whole new dimension to what we both thought was a pretty full life...and we love every minute of it." Just wait until she is fourteen, Chris!
As is the tradition for this feature, Chef Blobaum has taken a walk through the rows of vendors at his favorite farmer's market to contribute some recipes using fresh ingredients that are available in these first few months of winter. While the bounty of summer productions have long since faded with the shortness of the days, the selection of fall crops that Chris has chosen to work with should light up your holiday season table like it was a sunny day in June. Enjoy!
Current Projects
Recognition
